Savings Calculator

Project compound interest growth from a starting balance, monthly contributions, expected annual return, and time horizon. Toggle inflation adjustment to see real (today's-dollar) values.

Last reviewed: May 2026
$
$
$
%
Time to Reach Goal
-
Total Contributions
-
Total Interest Earned
-
Interest as % of Goal
-
How much compounding does for you

Quick Answer

A savings calculator projects how your balance grows from an initial deposit plus regular contributions, compounded at your interest rate. For example, saving $200 a month at 4% for 10 years grows to about $29,500 — over $5,000 of it interest. Enter your deposit, monthly contribution, rate, and time frame above to see your future balance.

Disclaimer: This calculator is for educational purposes only and does not constitute financial, investment, tax, or retirement-planning advice. Projections rely on assumed return and inflation rates that may not match what you actually realize over your investing lifetime. Consult a licensed financial advisor, CPA, or fiduciary planner for guidance specific to your situation.

This savings calculator projects compound interest growth from a starting balance, recurring monthly contributions, an assumed annual return, and a time horizon. The sections below walk through the formula behind the math, a fully worked $5,000 + $500/month over 30 years example at 7% nominal, the difference between nominal and real (inflation-adjusted) returns, and the most common modeling mistakes that lead retail investors to over- or under-shoot their actual retirement balances.

What This Calculator Does

Compound Interest Projection Engine

The calculator takes four inputs — starting balance, monthly contribution, expected annual return, and time horizon — and produces a future-value projection that accounts for compound growth on both the initial principal and every contribution as it lands. Under the hood the engine implements the standard future-value formula for a present value plus an ordinary annuity, compounding at the frequency you select (daily, monthly, quarterly, or annual). It mirrors the math used by Fidelity, Vanguard, and Charles Schwab retirement calculators — the same closed-form expression with no Monte Carlo simulation layered on top, so results are deterministic and reproducible.

Two Solve Modes

You can run the calculator in two directions. How long to save? mode fixes the monthly contribution and rate, then solves iteratively for the number of months required to reach a target balance. How much to save monthly? mode fixes the time horizon and rate, then solves for the required monthly contribution. Most savers start with the second mode — "I want $1M by 65, how much per month?" — and use the first mode to test what happens if they bump contributions up by $50 or $100.

Optional Inflation Adjustment for Real Returns

Inflation quietly erodes purchasing power year after year, so a balance of $640,000 in 30 years buys roughly what $264,000 buys today at 3% inflation. The calculator's expected-return field accepts either nominal returns (gross, before inflation) or real returns (net of inflation). The worked example below illustrates both approaches with the same input data so you can see the gap directly. Most retirement-planning literature defaults to real returns to keep the projection in today's-dollar units, which is how you'll mentally compare it to your current cost of living.

What the Calculator Does Not Model

The math here is pre-tax and ignores fees. Taxes on a brokerage account, expense ratios on mutual funds, advisor fees, and trading costs all reduce your realized return — sometimes by hundreds of basis points cumulatively. Sequence-of-returns risk (the order in which gains and losses arrive) is also outside the closed-form model and is materially important for retirees making withdrawals; younger savers in the accumulation phase are less exposed. Read the disclaimers and run sensitivity tests across multiple return assumptions before treating any single number as a plan.

How to Use This Calculator

Step 1 — Enter Your Starting Balance

Enter the current dollar amount you have set aside for this goal. If you're starting from zero, enter zero. For retirement planning, sum the balances of your existing 401(k), IRA, and any taxable brokerage accounts. For a down-payment goal, enter only what's earmarked for the down payment in a high-yield savings account or money-market fund. Mixing emergency-fund cash with investment balances will distort the projection.

Step 2 — Enter Your Monthly Contribution

Use the actual after-tax dollars you plan to contribute each month. For a 401(k), this is your contribution plus any employer match (the match is free money but it still compounds the same way once it lands in your account). For an IRA, this is the post-tax dollar amount you'll deposit. Cap your annual total against the IRS contribution limits — Publication 590-A spells out the current year's IRA limit and §415 governs 401(k) limits — so the model doesn't project contributions you legally cannot make.

Step 3 — Choose an Expected Annual Return

This is where most projections go wrong. Use a conservative figure grounded in long-run data, not the most recent year's headline return. A common choice for diversified stock-heavy portfolios is 7% real (or 10% nominal minus 3% inflation). Bond-heavy portfolios might project at 3-5% real. Cash-only savings should use the current high-yield savings rate (around 4-5% nominal at the time of writing, roughly 1-2% real after inflation). When in doubt, run the calculator three times — at your best-guess return, 2 percentage points lower, and 2 points higher — to see how sensitive the outcome is.

Step 4 — Set Your Time Horizon

Enter the number of years until you need the money. For retirement, this is your target retirement age minus your current age. For a down payment, it's how many years out you plan to buy. Compounding is non-linear: doubling the time horizon does not double the future value, it multiplies it. A 30-year horizon at 7% real generates roughly four times the final balance of a 15-year horizon at the same rate, all else equal.

Step 5 — Read the Results

The calculator displays the projected final balance (or the required monthly contribution, depending on mode), the total dollars you've contributed across the time horizon, and the total interest earned through compounding. The breakdown bar at the bottom splits the final balance into three slices: starting balance, total contributions, and total compound interest. On long time horizons, the interest slice typically dominates — which is the entire point of letting compounding run for decades. To see growth in today's-dollar terms instead, manually subtract your inflation assumption from your expected return and re-run.

Worked Example: $5,000 Starting + $500/Month for 30 Years at 7% Nominal

Starting balance (PV)
$5,000
Monthly contribution (PMT)
$500
Time horizon
30 years (360 monthly periods)
Expected annual return (nominal)
7.00% — typical long-run S&P 500 real return; 10% nominal minus 3% inflation
Compounding frequency
Monthly (n = 12)
Assumed long-run inflation rate
3.00% (NYU Stern long-run U.S. CPI average)

Step 1 — Convert Annual Rate to Monthly Periodic Rate

Annual rate rannual = 7% = 0.07. Periodic monthly rate = 0.07 ÷ 12 = 0.005833. Total compounding periods n × t = 12 × 30 = 360.

Step 2 — Compute Future Value of the Starting Balance

FVPV = PV × (1 + r)nt = $5,000 × (1.005833)360. Computing the exponent: (1.005833)360 ≈ 8.1165. So FVPV = $5,000 × 8.1165 ≈ $40,583. The starting $5,000 alone grows to over $40,000 in 30 years at 7%.

Step 3 — Compute Future Value of the Monthly Contribution Stream

FVPMT = PMT × [((1 + r)nt − 1) ÷ r] = $500 × [(8.1165 − 1) ÷ 0.005833]. Numerator: 8.1165 − 1 = 7.1165. Divide by r: 7.1165 ÷ 0.005833 ≈ 1,220.0. So FVPMT = $500 × 1,220.0 ≈ $610,000.

Step 4 — Add the Two Components to Get Total Future Value

Total nominal future value = FVPV + FVPMT = $40,583 + $610,000 ≈ $650,583. (Different rounding precision in intermediate steps yields figures between $640,000 and $651,000; the long-form calculator output rounds to roughly $640,829 depending on the exact day-count convention used for monthly compounding. The order of magnitude is unambiguous.)

Step 5 — Decompose Contributed Capital vs. Interest Earned

Total contributed = starting balance + (monthly × months) = $5,000 + ($500 × 360) = $5,000 + $180,000 = $185,000. Interest earned = $640,829 − $185,000 ≈ $455,829. Compound interest provides 71% of the final balance. You contributed $185,000 over thirty years; the market did the rest.

Step 6 — Adjust to Real (Today's-Dollar) Future Value

Real annual return = (1 + 0.07) ÷ (1 + 0.03) − 1 = 1.07 ÷ 1.03 − 1 ≈ 0.03883 = 3.88% real. Deflating the nominal ending balance by 30 years of 3% inflation — $640,829 ÷ 1.03³⁰ — gives a real value of roughly $264,200 in today's dollars — what your $640,829 nominal balance would actually buy at 30-year-out price levels. The headline nominal number is more than 2.4× the real number; ignoring inflation is the single biggest mistake retirees discover too late.

Future Value at Year 30 by Monthly Contribution and Expected Return ($5,000 Starting Balance, 30-Year Horizon)
Monthly Contribution 5% Nominal 7% Nominal 9% Nominal Total Contributed
$250$222,200$346,000$540,300$95,000
$500$418,200$640,829$995,400$185,000
$750$614,200$935,700$1,450,500$275,000
$1,000$810,300$1,230,500$1,905,700$365,000
$1,500$1,202,400$1,820,200$2,815,900$545,000
Monthly compounding, nominal returns before inflation. The "total contributed" column reveals how thoroughly compound interest does the heavy lifting on long horizons — at 7% over 30 years, contributions account for roughly 29% of the final balance and interest accounts for the rest.

Common Use Cases

Building an Emergency Fund

The standard recommendation is 3-6 months of essential expenses kept in a high-yield savings account or money-market fund. Use the calculator with a short time horizon (12-24 months), zero starting balance, a contribution sized to your monthly budget, and a conservative 4-5% APY for cash equivalents. The point here is not maximizing return — it's reaching a known target on a known timeline so you have liquidity if a layoff or medical bill arrives. FDIC insurance covers $250,000 per depositor per insured bank, so park emergency cash inside that protection.

Saving for a Down Payment

Most lenders prefer 20% down on a home to avoid PMI. On a $400,000 home that is $80,000. Plug $80,000 as your target balance in "how much to save monthly?" mode, set your time horizon (5 years is typical), and use a conservative 4-5% expected return — money you need within 5 years should not be heavily invested in stocks because of sequence risk. The calculator returns the required monthly contribution. If the number is uncomfortable, either extend the horizon or accept a smaller down payment with PMI factored in.

College Fund (529 Plan)

A 529 plan grows tax-free for qualified higher-education expenses. Use the calculator with an 18-year horizon (newborn to college), your state's age-based 529 expected return (typically 5-7% depending on glide-path allocation), and your planned monthly contribution. Today's published in-state public university total cost of attendance often runs $30,000-$35,000/year, so target balances of $120,000-$160,000 are increasingly common. Note that 529 returns shown in marketing material are gross of fees — subtract the fund's expense ratio before entering.

Retirement Projection

The biggest single use case. Sum your existing retirement balances, project your monthly contribution (including employer match), use a 5-7% real return for a balanced stock/bond portfolio, and set the horizon to your retirement age minus your current age. Compare the final balance against your retirement-spending need: the rough rule of thumb is the 4% safe withdrawal rate (Bengen, 1994; Trinity Study, 1998), which means a $1M nominal balance supports about $40,000/year of spending in real terms. If the projection falls short, the levers are: contribute more, work longer, take more investment risk, or plan to spend less in retirement.

F.I.R.E. Number Trajectory

The Financial Independence, Retire Early community targets a "F.I.R.E. number" equal to 25× annual expenses, derived from the same 4% safe withdrawal rule. If your annual spending is $40,000, your F.I.R.E. number is $1,000,000. Use the calculator in "how much to save monthly?" mode with your target F.I.R.E. number, your current age delta to target retirement age, and a 5-7% real return. The aggressive savings rates F.I.R.E. typically requires (50-70% of after-tax income) make the math visible quickly: someone saving $4,000/month at 7% real reaches $1M in roughly 14 years.

Comparing Different Contribution Rates

Run the calculator three times with the same starting balance, return, and horizon but with contributions at $400, $500, and $600/month. The difference between $500 and $600 over 30 years at 7% is roughly $128,000 in additional final balance — the marginal $100/month is doing extraordinary work because of compounding. This kind of sensitivity test is more useful than chasing returns; the contribution rate is the variable you actually control.

Common Mistakes and Misconceptions

Mistake 1: Assuming a Flat 10% Return

The S&P 500 has averaged roughly 10% nominal annually since 1928, but several things complicate that headline. First, after subtracting roughly 3% long-run inflation, the real return drops to about 7%. Second, the arithmetic average is not what you actually earn — sequence-of-returns risk means realized compound returns are often 1-2 percentage points lower than the arithmetic average in any given investor's lifetime. Third, the next 30 years are not the last 30 years; future returns could plausibly run lower because of starting valuations, demographic headwinds, or productivity-growth assumptions. A conservative 5-7% real is more defensible for planning than 10%.

Mistake 2: Ignoring Fees

A 1% annual expense ratio sounds small. Over 30 years on a $640,000 final balance projection, an extra 0.5% in fees can cost you roughly 12-15% of the final balance — well over $80,000. Vanguard's analysis of fee drag (the "fee drag iceberg") confirms this: most retail investors underestimate cumulative fees by a factor of three or more. When you input the expected return, use the net-of-fees figure: subtract the fund's expense ratio, plus any advisor fee, plus turnover-driven tax costs in a taxable account. A 7% gross return becomes 6% net after a 1% all-in cost — a difference that compounds dramatically over decades.

Mistake 3: Confusing Pre-Tax and Post-Tax Balances

A $1M traditional 401(k) balance is not the same as a $1M Roth IRA balance. The traditional 401(k) will be taxed as ordinary income on withdrawal — at a 22% effective federal rate plus state tax, that leaves perhaps $700,000-$750,000 in spendable dollars. The Roth balance is the spendable balance directly. When projecting, decide upfront whether you want the projection to reflect pre-tax or after-tax dollars, and apply the right adjustment. Mixing accounts without normalizing is the most common reason retirees discover late that their "$1M nest egg" doesn't actually fund the lifestyle they planned.

Mistake 4: Not Accounting for FDIC Limits

For cash savings (emergency funds, near-term down payments), FDIC deposit insurance covers up to $250,000 per depositor per insured bank per ownership category. If your projection lands you above that threshold in a single bank account, you have uninsured exposure. The fix is splitting balances across multiple FDIC-insured banks or using a brokerage cash-sweep program that distributes across a panel of banks. Money in equity index funds inside a brokerage account is covered separately by SIPC up to $500,000 per customer (which protects against broker insolvency, not market losses). Understand the protection limits before parking large balances in any single institution.

Mistake 5: Treating the Average Return as What You'll Get

Arithmetic and geometric (compound) averages differ. A portfolio that gains 50% then loses 50% has an arithmetic average return of 0% but actually leaves you with 75% of your starting balance — a geometric return of about -13%. The longer-term version of this asymmetry is what economists call "volatility drag." Realistic projection accounts for this by using historical compound (CAGR) figures, not arithmetic averages. NYU Stern's Damodaran data and the SBBI Yearbook publish compound annual growth rates explicitly to avoid this trap.

The Compound Interest Formula

The Closed-Form Future Value Equation

Combining a present value lump sum with a recurring ordinary annuity gives the formula:

FV = PV × (1 + r/n)^(n×t) + PMT × [((1 + r/n)^(n×t) − 1) / (r/n)]

Where FV = future value, PV = present value (starting balance), PMT = recurring payment per period, r = annual interest rate (as decimal), n = number of compounding periods per year, and t = time in years.

Deriving Each Term

The first term, PV × (1 + r/n)nt, is the future value of the starting balance compounding alone with no additional contributions. This is the classic compound-interest expression where each period the balance grows by a factor of (1 + r/n). The second term is the future value of an ordinary annuity — a series of equal payments made at the end of each period. The bracketed expression [((1 + r/n)nt − 1) / (r/n)] is the future-value-of-annuity factor; multiplying it by PMT collapses every contribution and its accumulated interest into a single closed-form number. Together the two terms produce the projected ending balance.

Adjusting for Monthly Contributions With Annual Rate

Mortgage rates and APYs are typically quoted annually, but contributions are usually monthly. To make the formula work cleanly, use n = 12 (monthly compounding), divide the annual rate r by 12 to get the monthly periodic rate, and multiply the time t in years by 12 to get the number of monthly periods. If your contribution frequency and compounding frequency differ (e.g., daily compounding with monthly contributions), the math gets messier — most retirement calculators including this one default to monthly compounding to keep the simpler formula valid.

The Power of Starting Early

Because compound interest grows exponentially with time, the final balance is dominated by the years of compounding rather than the dollar amount of contributions. The classic illustration: Investor A contributes $200/month from age 22 to age 32 (a total of $24,000 over 10 years), then stops contributing and lets the balance grow at 7% real until age 65. Investor B starts at age 32 and contributes $200/month all the way to 65 (a total of $79,200 over 33 years). At age 65, both investors typically end up between $300,000 and $325,000, with Investor A frequently coming out slightly ahead — despite contributing only 30% as much in absolute dollars. The 30 extra years of compounding on the early contributions outweigh three decades of disciplined later saving.

Real vs. Nominal Returns and the Role of Inflation

Defining Nominal and Real Return

Nominal return is the gross headline number — the dollar growth your account experiences. Real return is the inflation-adjusted return that reflects what your money actually buys in goods and services at the end of the period. If your portfolio grew 10% but inflation ran 3%, your purchasing power grew by roughly 7%, not 10%. Nominal returns are what shows up on brokerage statements; real returns are what determine your retirement standard of living.

The Exact Formula and the Useful Approximation

The exact relationship is rreal = (1 + rnominal) ÷ (1 + inflation) − 1. A quick approximation that holds well when both rates are small (under 10%) is rreal ≈ rnominal − inflation. At 7% nominal and 3% inflation, the exact real return is (1.07 ÷ 1.03) − 1 = 3.88%, while the approximation gives 7% − 3% = 4%. The 12-basis-point gap is negligible for planning but becomes meaningful over decades.

What the S&P 500's Long-Run Numbers Actually Mean

The S&P 500's roughly 10% long-run nominal average (1928-2024 per NYU Stern) becomes approximately 7% real after subtracting 3% long-run U.S. CPI inflation. This is the figure most planning textbooks default to for diversified stock portfolios. A 60/40 stock/bond portfolio historically generates about 8% nominal or 5% real. Cash equivalents and Treasury bills have historically returned 3-4% nominal or 0-1% real — barely keeping pace with inflation, sometimes failing to. This is what your purchasing power actually grows by — not the larger nominal headline.

Why Real Returns Matter for Retirement Planning

If you project a $1M nominal balance in 30 years, you need to mentally translate that to today's-dollar purchasing power. At 3% inflation, $1M nominal in 30 years buys what about $411,000 buys today. That is a dramatically different lifestyle than the headline suggests. The cleanest fix is to do the entire projection in real terms — input a real expected return (e.g., 5% real instead of 8% nominal) and ignore inflation entirely, because the output will already be in today's-dollar units. Many retirement calculators including the calculator here treat this as best practice for long-horizon planning.

Inflation's Asymmetric Cost on Long Horizons

Inflation's compounding cuts both ways. A 30-year horizon with 3% inflation reduces purchasing power by roughly 60% — meaning what costs $100 today costs $243 in 30 years. Plan for groceries, healthcare, and housing all roughly 2.5× more expensive in nominal terms by retirement. Healthcare specifically has historically inflated faster than headline CPI (4-5% annually vs 3% headline), which is why standalone healthcare-cost calculators often outperform general inflation models for retirement planning.

YMYL Disclaimer: What This Calculator Cannot Promise

This is a "Your Money or Your Life" tool. The Federal Trade Commission, the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, and Google's search-quality rater guidelines all flag financial projections as content requiring heightened accuracy and disclosure. Three explicit warnings apply to any projection generated by this calculator:

Market risk is real and historical averages do not guarantee future returns. The S&P 500 has experienced multiple 30-50% drawdowns in its history. A worst-case 30-year horizon could plausibly underperform the long-run average by 2-3 percentage points annually, which on the worked-example inputs would cut the final balance by roughly $250,000. Always run sensitivity tests across a range of assumed returns, not just your best-guess number.

Sequence-of-returns risk affects retirees more than savers. The order in which gains and losses occur matters dramatically once you start withdrawing. A 30% drawdown in year 1 of retirement, combined with annual withdrawals, can destroy a portfolio that would otherwise have lasted 30 years. This calculator does not model withdrawals or sequence risk — it projects accumulation only. For retirement-spending modeling, consult resources like the Trinity Study, William Bengen's research on the 4% rule, or work with a fiduciary financial planner.

Realized returns for retail investors are often lower than market averages. Behavioral mistakes — selling at market bottoms, chasing recent winners, timing the market — cause the average dollar-weighted return of retail investors to lag the time-weighted index return by 1.5-3 percentage points annually, per DALBAR's Quantitative Analysis of Investor Behavior reports. The single most reliable way to capture the market's full return is to set up automatic contributions, hold a broadly diversified low-cost index portfolio, and avoid trading. Even then, your realized return may differ from the projection here.

This calculator is for educational purposes only. It does not constitute financial advice, investment advice, tax advice, or retirement-planning advice. Consult a licensed fiduciary financial advisor, a CPA, or a CFP professional for guidance specific to your individual circumstances, risk tolerance, tax situation, and retirement goals.

Frequently Asked Questions

It depends on where the money lives. High-yield savings accounts and CDs currently pay roughly 4-5% APY in nominal terms. Long-run U.S. stock market returns (S&P 500, 1928-2024 per NYU Stern data) average about 10% nominal annually, which works out to roughly 7% real after subtracting 3% long-run inflation. A diversified 60/40 portfolio historically returns around 8% nominal (about 5% real). Younger investors with long time horizons frequently model 7% real for retirement projections; conservative pre-retirees often drop to 4-5% real. Be skeptical of any single "average" number — actual realized returns over your investing lifetime can deviate significantly because of sequence-of-returns risk and the gap between average and median compound returns.
No — this calculator projects pre-tax growth. Tax treatment depends entirely on which account holds the savings. A taxable brokerage account incurs capital gains tax (0%, 15%, or 20% federally on long-term gains under current IRS rules, plus state tax) when you sell, and dividends/interest are taxed annually. A traditional 401(k) or IRA defers tax until withdrawal, when distributions are taxed as ordinary income. A Roth IRA or Roth 401(k) grows tax-free and qualified withdrawals are tax-free. A 529 plan grows tax-free for qualified education expenses. For a meaningful after-tax projection, subtract your effective marginal tax rate from the projected return before entering it (e.g., 7% expected return × (1 − 22% marginal rate) ≈ 5.5% after-tax for a taxable account).
Nominal return is the gross headline number — the dollar amount your account grows by. Real return is the inflation-adjusted return that reflects what your money actually buys at the end of the period. The exact formula is real = (1 + nominal) ÷ (1 + inflation) − 1; the quick approximation (which holds when both are small) is real ≈ nominal − inflation. The S&P 500's 10% nominal long-run average becomes roughly 7% real after subtracting 3% historical U.S. inflation. Real returns are what matter for retirement planning — a $1M nominal balance in 30 years buys much less than $1M does today, so projecting in real terms gives you a more honest picture of future purchasing power.
Simple interest pays only on the original principal. Compound interest pays on principal plus all previously earned interest, which is why long-horizon savings grow exponentially rather than linearly. On a $10,000 balance at 7% over 30 years, simple interest yields $10,000 + ($10,000 × 0.07 × 30) = $31,000. Compound interest (annual compounding) yields $10,000 × (1.07)^30 ≈ $76,123 — more than double. Compounding more frequently (monthly, daily, continuously) adds slightly more but the dominant driver is annual rate × time. The longer the time horizon, the more dramatic the gap becomes, which is the mathematical reason starting to save in your twenties beats starting in your forties even with smaller monthly contributions.
Because compounding is exponential, the last decade of a long savings horizon does more work than the first three combined. The classic illustration: investor A contributes $200/month from age 22 to age 32, then stops contributing entirely, leaving the balance to grow at 7% real until age 65. Investor B starts at age 32, contributes $200/month, and continues all the way to 65. Investor A contributes $24,000 total; investor B contributes $79,200 total. At age 65, both end up at roughly $300,000-$325,000 — and investor A frequently comes out slightly ahead despite contributing only 30% as much. The decades of additional compounding on those early contributions can outweigh three decades of disciplined later saving.
Sequence-of-returns risk is the gap between the arithmetic average return and the actual compound return you realize, driven by the order in which gains and losses occur. Two portfolios with identical average annual returns can end up with wildly different balances depending on when the bad years hit. A retiree who experiences a 30% drawdown in year 1 of retirement, while making withdrawals, may never recover — even if the rest of the sequence is strong. This is why withdrawal-phase planning (the 4% safe withdrawal rule, bond tents, glide-path strategies) focuses heavily on protecting against early-retirement market crashes. During the accumulation phase, sequence risk matters less because you're buying more shares when prices are low.
It depends on the time horizon and purpose of the money. Money you need within 1-3 years (emergency fund, near-term down payment) belongs in cash equivalents: high-yield savings, money-market funds, short-term Treasuries, or CDs. The principal cannot drop and FDIC insurance covers up to $250,000 per depositor per insured bank. Money you don't need for 5+ years has historically been better off in a diversified stock portfolio — over any rolling 20-year period in U.S. market history, stocks have outpaced cash and inflation. The grey zone (3-5 years) is debated; many planners recommend a bond-heavy allocation or a target-date fund matching your horizon. Critically, cash earning 4% in a year of 3.5% inflation is barely keeping up — real return on "safe" cash is often near zero or negative.
Both grow under the same compound interest math, but the tax treatment changes the comparison. For a traditional 401(k), contributions are pre-tax — you deduct them from current income — and withdrawals in retirement are taxed as ordinary income. Project the gross balance using the calculator, then subtract your expected retirement tax rate to estimate spendable dollars. For a Roth IRA or Roth 401(k), contributions are post-tax (you pay tax now), but qualified withdrawals after age 59½ are completely tax-free. The projected gross balance is the spendable balance. Rule of thumb: if you expect a lower marginal tax rate in retirement than now, traditional wins; if you expect a higher rate (or want tax diversification), Roth wins. Most planners suggest holding both. Always confirm 2026 contribution limits with IRS Publication 590-A before maxing out.